Mount
Hood is one the most accessible mountains in the world. Thousands of people go
up it every year and even more go down—it is home to the only ski lift that operates
365 days a year—but few people take the time to circumnavigate the active volcano,
at least in something other than an automobile. So, on a scorching hot summer
day, my good friend Dave and I set out to accomplish just that.
We
head out early—6:30 a.m.—to ride some big miles. Dave meets me at my house near
Mt. Tabor and we take the 205 bike path south before heading east on the
Springwater Corridor, which is named after the former railroad line that followed
the same route from 1903 to 1989, before it was converted into the 21 mile paved
recreational trail that now sees over one million users annually. In the town
of Boring, the trail disappears and we cross Highway 212, taking SE Richie Rd
until it ends, and then a left on SE Kelso Rd. The rolling country roads
provide little to no shoulder, but make up for it with the most incredible of
backdrops—we take in an awe-inspiring view of Mount Hood, which from the west appears
as beautiful as any mountain, anywhere in the world. Because it’s the weekend,
and because it’s early, there is little traffic, and much to my surprise, not one
hillbilly in an oversized truck slows down to yell at us (see: An Idiot’s Guide
to Yelling, July 22, 2014).
When
we hit Rt. 26, also known as the Mt. Hood Highway, we have a choice to make: take
a right and ride with heavy traffic on the super busy four-lane highway, or go
straight and take the longer, hillier, more relaxing, scenic route. We opt for
the scenic route, dodging traffic across 26 like characters in Frogger, and
continuing straight on Kelso Rd until it ends. We take a right on SE Bluff Rd,
follow it to Sandy, and head east through the small town, before taking a left
on SE Ten Eyek Rd. We continue on this road until it turns to SE Marmot Rd,
which follows a seven-mile ridge known as the “Devil’s Backbone.” It received
its hellish name because it was such a daunting task for Oregon Trail pioneers
to descend their wagons down it, but today the rural road is one of the most
beautiful bicycle rides in all of Northwestern Oregon—highly recommended for
anyone who has a morning to kill. We keep on Marmot, which eventually turns
into E Barlow Trail Rd. We follow this until it ends, before taking a right on
E Lolo Pass Rd, which brings us into the town of Welches and back to Route 26. There’s
a café/bakery on the corner—the last stop for supplies for a long while. We opt
to cross the highway to use the bathroom and fill our water bottles at the US
Ranger Station.
Again
we have another choice and again we decide to bypass Highway 26, riding east
along its shoulder for less than a mile, before swinging a right on Still Creek
Road. The pavement quickly ends and we head up the gradual incline of a narrow
dirt road that parallels the small stream for which it got its name. There are
no other vehicles in the thick forest, which is overgrown with tall monstrous
pines whose shade keeps us cool from the late-morning sun. The road spits us
out at Trillium Lake, where Dave gets a flat tire, which isn’t a big deal, because
if you’re going to get a flat, there’s no better place to have it happen than
at Trillium Lake, where the scenery is as good as it gets. As he works on his
bike, we are granted an awe-inspiring view of Mount Hood, which from the south appears
as beautiful as any mountain, anywhere in the world.
We
take Trillium Lake Road back to Highway 26 and then follow the Mount Hood
Highway as it heads north and becomes Route 35. We climb up to Bennett pass, which
at 4,650 feet is as high as we’ll reach all day, and then go for a ride as we
descend down the other side. We don’t quite reach 40 mph, but we come close as we
tuck our bodies in as low as we can and bomb down a slope that seems to go on
for so long that I eventually start to look forward to some more uphill. It
eventually flattens out and we take a left on Baseline Rd and follow it into
the tiny town of Parkdale. I look up at the mountain to my left and it reminds
me of an enormous ice cream sundae with hot fudge swirls. This is a bad sign—if
you start dreaming about food while riding big miles, that usually means it’s
too late; that usually means you should have eaten thirty minutes ago.
Fortunately, Parkdale has many food options to choose from—a brewery, a burger
joint, and a BBQ. Unfortunately, we’re short on time and have to settle for a
quick bite from the local grocery store. We eat a small lunch of deli wraps,
chips, and bottles of soda, as we marvel at an awe-inspiring view of Mount
Hood, which from the east appears as beautiful as any mountain, anywhere in the
world.
We’re
back on our bikes in no time, following the Dee Highway north before taking a
left on Lost Lake Road. It’s close to 100 degrees outside and what shade we
should have disappeared with the trees when the area was clear-cut for lumber.
The sun bakes us as we travel uphill towards Lolo Pass. When we leave Lost Lake
Road for the unpaved NF-18 (National Forest Route 18), the forest reappears, as
does the cool shade, but it might be too late—the heat has gotten to Dave. He
gets off his bike and pukes up his lunch. It’s sad to see a perfectly good meal
go to waste, but it’s even worse to see a fellow rider in such agony. This will
turn out to be the longest ride Dave has ever done in his entire life, but
right now we still have fifty miles to go.
Normally,
I might be concerned; I might be wondering how we’re going to get out of these
woods. But with Dave, I’m not worried, for he’s one of the toughest men I’ve
ever had the pleasure to know (when he’s not completing epic bicycle rides, he’s
choking people out at jiu-jitsu tournaments). And I don’t know what you would expect
a tough guy to do in a situation like this, but I’d expect him to drink some mountain
water straight out of a stream and get back on his bike without complaining.
And that’s precisely what Dave does. We complete the 3,415 foot climb up Lolo’s
pass, which brings us so close to the mountain’s peak that you feel as if you can
almost reach out and touch it—an absolutely awe-inspiring view of Mount Hood,
which from the north appears as beautiful as any mountain, anywhere in the
world.
We
fly down Lolo Pass Road, which is paved, and find ourselves again in the town
of Welches, filling up our water bottles at the Ranger Station. On the way
back, we opt to take the more direct route, riding with traffic on Route 26,
back to the city. The entire ride comes out to just over 160 miles, with almost
11,000 feet of elevation gain. But if you want to do just the loop and say that
you circumnavigated Mount Hood, then I would suggest driving to the Welches
Ranger Station and parking in their large lot. From there, the ride should be
about 80 miles, completely circling Mt. Hood, which from any angle appears as beautiful
as any mountain, anywhere in the world.
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